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By special request, I’m back to share my 15 favourite restaurants that I reviewed in the past four years. Whether it’s a list of 15 or 50 there are eateries left off. I imagine them wondering “why didn’t she include us?” Hugs to those that didn’t make the cut.

Prior to this gig, because of family, business or holiday, much of my dining had been in Toronto, Montreal, Vancouver and New York City. I looked forward to catching up on the local scene, but was advised to not revisit restaurants recently reviewed by my predecessor and instead attend to eateries that were new or had not received attention for a while — or ever. Consequently, about 100 restaurants are not even on the list of those getting consideration in this task – and some of those restaurants remain local favourites.

From my own list of over 200 eateries, I decided, for this exercise, to exclude those that focus on pizza, wings, burgers, coffee, ice cream, and desserts. Locally we have many in each category and it can be tough to have only one favourite.

“Favourites” must not be confused with Michelin-type ratings of “Best.” Nonetheless, I’ll borrow a few of their criteria — consistency over several visits in the quality of ingredients, cooking techniques, flavour and value for money – and add ambiance and service.

When it comes to favourites, my bottom line is: Have I, would I return? Would I, do I recommend the restaurant to friends?

In alphabetical order, here’s my list. Note that, given COVID and all, my views/reviews may no longer be entirely accurate, and staffing and menus will have changed. I recently revisited a favourite and, for the time being, have dropped it from my list. Sadly a few favourites closed permanently.

Aberdeen Tavern. This kitchen benefits from the talents of Chef John Forcier, of Equal Parts Hospitality – with establishments that include The Diplomat and The French. Coming to Hamilton from Canoe in Toronto, his experience with French cooking techniques is evident in his creative and delicious menus. When I ate at (though did not review) The French, I enjoyed a dish with sunchoke and was pleasantly surprised that they shared the recipe.

Afrolicious. The menu offers descriptions for diners unfamiliar with this cuisine and owner Nancy Kinyua is a willing food guide. Mbuzi is one of my favourite dishes in this bright and cheerful setting. Slow-braised, melt-in-your-mouth goat meat is mixed with onions, peppers, tomato and cilantro and served with rice or fresh chapatti made by Kinyua’s mother. Cassava Fries? Fabulous!

Berkeley North. The first time I visited, I was giddy. The expanded King William street patio was opening and a lockdown was over. It was summer and sunny. The mushroom dumpling appetizer (still on the menu) was gobbled up so fast I didn’t get a photo so we placed another order. Fresh cheese and sourdough is a signature dish. The modern west-coast-influenced cuisine placed Berkley North in OpenTable’s Top 100 Restaurants in Canada.

Castelli Cucina. A family vibe predominates in this Italian eatery named for the birthplace of owner/chef Daniel Mancini’s grandparents. Visiting with a group, we feasted on perfect porchetta with antipasto, focaccia, Burrata and terrific Calamari fritti. Then out came a red and a white pizza, leaving no room for Bombolini. The opening of their shop Castelli Mercato in Ancaster is highly anticipated.

Electric Diner. Owners Erika Puckering and Chef Jamie Ewing crafted Electric Diner as a tribute to the 1980s. Whimsy is reflected in their decor and menu that includes classics — Reuben and fried chicken sandwiches, burgers, grilled cheese and deviled eggs. Known for their popular trivia nights, they have a charming winter patio. Opening soon is their second location on King William St.

IOS Estiatorio & Wine Bar. IOS Estiatorio reminded me of how great Greek cuisine can be. From the flaming Saganaki to Karidopita for dessert, I fell for this family’s hospitality and food. I have tried to replicate their Avgolemono soup and dessert. I hold no hope of matching the excellence of their slow-roasted, melt-in-your-mouth lamb and flavourful lemon potatoes. Watch for the opening of their market/bakery.

Isabelle Restaurant and Lounge. I seem to have succumbed to a spell and have now dined at Isabelle’s four times. It can only be attributed to the lovely view of the lake and the top-notch food. The patio is transitioning to cool weather where heaters are ablaze and blankets abound. Now open every day, the prix fixe weekend brunch described in my review is now a la carte and begins at 9:00 a.m. Isabelle is participating in Taste of Burlington running from October 11 – 31.

Kamoosh Bistro. Part of the brand for this upscale Italian eatery is that all ingredients are carefully sourced from local providers and much is made in-house – e.g., pickles, preserves, pasta, and stocks. You can find happiness with the cicchetti (Italian tapas) alone – and some are food adventures. The polenta chips, fried sage and anchovies and the marrow and heart served with pickled eggplant are unforgettable starters.

Loondocks. There’s talent in this kitchen that turns out plates reflecting French and Italian influences. The classy, but casual space offers a range of meat and seafood mains “sandwiched” between starters like venison sliders or arancini and several deserts that can be enjoyed with a Salted Caramel Espresso Martini or Loondocks Affogato – espresso poured over ice cream and enhanced with Frangelico.

Quatrefoil. My review of Quatrefoil focused on the upscale takeout program they ran during COVID lockdowns. Classy packaging showcased their food and kept the à la minute mains warm for the journey home – think fresh salad, coconut steamed rice with halibut and short ribs. A full on-site dining experience ought to be on your bucket list. Their Fall menu is rolling out with inviting dishes that must now be enjoyed indoors rather than on their gorgeous sun-dappled patio.

Rapscallion & Co. Sadly, Ventura closed but became the new home of Other Bird’s Rapscallion — offering the best of Chef Matt Kershaw – a treasured top chef in Hamilton who has worked in Michelin-starred kitchens. During lockdowns, Comfort Kitchen takeouts tempted. No Rapscallion experience would be complete without their signature appetizer — Chicken Liver Brulé. Their sharing plates tantalize – imagine duck dumplings. If a country road trip beckons, head to Edit restaurant in Paris’ Arlington Hotel – also part of Other Bird.

Rayhoon. This “parent” of Nannaa Persian Eatery offers fantastic food and I am still working my way through the menu. If, like me, you’re not a big fan of eggplant, the Stuffed Baby Eggplant with pomegranate sauce will make you a convert. Don’t skip the hummus, try every kabob and end with Cardamom Tea with a sugar stick. Oh – and I’d walk a mile (if I could) for the Barbari Bread.

Rustic Reuben. Choose takeout or seating to enjoy the breakfast and lunch offerings at this tucked-away eatery – salads, non-Reuben (including vegan) and Reuben sandwiches. This family-run business makes my favourite Reuben served with the best hand-cut fries – made without deep frying! It’s a short walk from St. Joseph’s hospital thus serving as a great food respite if life lands you in the Emergency department.

Sakai Japanese and Korean. The “irasshaimase” shout-out from the chefs when you arrive signals a neighbourly welcome. The Kim family offers classic fresh sushi (an impressive list of maki, nigiri, sashimi and temaki) and many specialties. Enhance your meal with specialties linked to their Korean roots — Chicken Karashi and Beef Bool Go Ghee. Fun meals are the “cook at your table” adventures — Sukiyaki, Nabe Mono or Shabu Shabu.

Shiro Ramen and Mystic Ramen. My first taste of ramen was in New York City at the iconic Ivan Ramen. That set the bar pretty high, but two places in Hamilton have delivered ramen happiness. Shiro Ramen where the words “I’m happy” slipped out after my first mouthful. Making fresh noodles daily, Shiro’s richly flavoured meat broth is cooked for at least 9 hours. If not dining in, my takeout always includes Gyozas and Chicken Karaage. Not as close to home is Mystic Ramen at the Hamilton Farmers’ Market. Chef Noah Woods’ ramen expertise brings happiness to market diners as well as folks who seek Mystic out at local pop-up events.

A few postscripts I couldn’t resist. Burger? Delirious in Hamilton and Real in Burlington; grateful for Noodle and Dumpling that introduced me to Scallion Pancakes; Rose Garden – a great spot for diner-style comfort food; Favourite tea house? Waterdown Tea House with its yellow door, patio and Dinah! Best Gourmet Asian desserts – always My Sweet Tooth.

Food so good it almost made me cry? Sushi at Paper Crane and macarons at Nuttybutter – both now permanently closed. Restaurants need our patronage to survive and thrive. As my dad would have said – all of the above offered “a good feed.” Happy Dining!

instagram.com/delirious_burger_co/

IOS Estiatorio & Wine Bar

The Pearle Hotel, 3 Elizabeth St., Burlington

Sakai Japanese and Korean Restaurant

instagram.com/waterdown_tea_house/

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